Le Prieuré

Le Prieuré (The Priory) is my home. I have lived here for the past three months ~ in a medieval cloister snuggled on top of a hill in the middle of a quaint little village. I really could not think of a better place to spend my time in France. You may ask how this little old Priory came into existence, and why it is so important to the village?

In the eleventh century, a church and priory were built by the Benedictine Order on a hill in Ambialet, while the village had become established below.  Many centuries later, in 1860, the priory was bought by a Franciscan friar, Father Clausade. He restored the monastery of the Priory for Third Order Franciscans and also the attached Romanesque chapel of Notre-Dame-de-L’Oder. He also established a seminary school for young boys.

The Priory Overlooking Ambialet
© Tales of a Flaneur

The seminary school for boys was very hard.  Getting up at the crack of dawn was followed by shirtless gymnastics in the yard, regardless of the weather!  After, they went to Mass and later to classes. Following meals, they recited seventy Hail Mary’s in the cloister with the monks. Only after this could they enjoy some recreation time!  Their favorite day was Pentecost because they sang for the multitude who came there on pilgrimage. The seminary boarding school closed around 1960. Alumni still come today to see how the place is changed and to find the exact spot in which they slept at night.

Currently, the Priory is leased by Saint Francis University. Significant restorations have been made, which makes staying there a much more pleasant experience!  Many students come each year and experience the wonderful joys of the rural area of Ambialet. The villagers say that we have brought light into their lives. They enjoy being able to look up on the hill and see lights on in the priory. It brings them great joy to know that the once abandoned building is now being put to such good use! The people of Ambialet look forward to new groups of students coming here each semester, and to being able to share Ambialet's history with each of them. We have certainly learned a lot about this town over the past three months, and have come to greatly respect its history and its people. We have felt so very welcomed and have enjoyed our time here!

<3

[Spectacle son & lumière d’Ambialet 2008: Texte redige du spectacle]

Town Charter

According to the original town charter of 1136, the consuls of Ambialet were elected to a one-year term. They were charged with some important responsibilities: these included the building of the castle and the drawbridge; distributing the tax; setting the prices of wine, bread and meat; overseeing the right use of weights and measures; and, controlling the ports along the Tarn River. The consuls were also in charge of posting bail if a man was in jail in the castle. The town charter also indicated that if their Lord went to war against someone, the consuls did not have to follow him into war. You can see how important the consuls were for the town:  these men were not only in charge of the defenses of the town, but also established the prices of goods, and controlled the ports of the city.  

The people of Ambialet also had an interesting custom they followed each year.  From among their male youth, they would elect a "King of the Youth" (Roi de la Jeunesse) for the year, who had his own seneschals, judge and sergeants, and whose job was to set holidays and feasts for the town. Upon being elected, he could demand a bucket of wine and quart of nuts from the last man to get married that year. The wine that the 'King of the Youth' collected would be drunk at town feasts for all to enjoy. 

["La Charte" in Journée du Patrimoine 2010].

Forged Town Charter

After the Albigensian Crusades devastated many communities in southern France, the town of Ambialet was given to a new lord: the crusader Simon de Montfort.  He was to be given this land in reward for his efforts in the Crusades... but he died before he could claim the new lordship for himself.  So, the land was given to his son ~ his heir. In anticipation of doing homage to their new lord, the town consuls sought to preserve their rights, and even to increase them!  Together, they conspired to 'revise' the old town charter, and pass it off as the original.  They forged a new charter and even had a notary sign it.  According to the forged town charter, the people of Ambialet had the right to hunt wild game ~ a right which they had never been given before!  According to the forged charter, the people were allowed to enjoy this hunting right so long as they gave the head of each wild boar they killed to their Lord, and the thigh of any other animal they caught to him as well. The new Lord of the region did not know the customs and rights of the town, and so he let it go!

[Spectacle son et lumière d’Ambialet 2008. Texte redige du spectacle].

Tarn River: Source of Economy

Besides inspiring clever café names, the Tarn River has provided Ambialet with many other services throughout history.  In the Middle Ages, the area obtained much of its wealth through mining.  Lead, iron, copper, along with other precious metals, were mined in this region.  It was the Tarn River which facilitated the movement of goods and provided locals with accessibility to trade.  The powerful current of the Tarn was also harnessed as an energy source and used to drive mills.  Thus another key source of revenue for this area issued from goods made in the mills:  wheat, grain, textiles, oil, and lumber.  All of these were easily transported along the river and sold to other communities.

The Beloved Fete

Every summer, Ambialet puts on a festival for anyone who cares to join in on the fun!   These festivals, or “fetes” as they are better known in the South of France, have been celebrated since the Middle Ages.   Having used to take place in October, Ambialet’s annual fete now occurs during the first weekend of August. 

It has been explained to Saint Francis Students by two of Ambialet's locals, Mamie and Christiane, that for years, around two hundred people from the village and elsewhere have made their way to Ambialet’s center square to enjoy the music, dancing, and traditional dishes of the region.  Historically, musicians would visit each home in the village prior to the day of the festival, offering wine or flowers to each of the households in exchange for a donation to support the construction of a stage to be used for dancing.  The traditional fete also included the crowning of a “King of the Youth”--a tradition that was not begun until after the Albigensian Crusades as a form of resistance towards and a way to poke fun at the French king who nobody in the south particularly cared for.  Besides the crowning of this "King of the Youth" were a variety of fun activities organized solely for the children that incorporated running races and water games.

Fetes have changed dramatically over the years, but the idea of having annual gatherings remain.  Today, the fete in Ambialet begins on a Friday by serving a traditional meal to all in attendance.  The menu consists of a half melon with pork; country ham; potatoes that have been chopped and stewed with ceps (the local mushroom); duck leg; Roquefort cheese; and tarte a pommes (apple tart).  The following day, a disco and fairground is set up in the village square; Sunday concludes the festival with a firework display.

For a personal account of the fete experience, you might try reading a blog post written by one of the Saint Francis students or watching this clip.  During one of their first weekends in Ambialet, the Saint Francis group was invited to a fete in the neighboring village of Saint Michel; a great time was had by all!

[Interview conducted on 13 November 2010 with Mamie and Christiane].

All You Need to Know About "Aligot"

During the time in which religious pilgrims traveled throughout southern France, they would stop at the various villages along their way to rest.  As such, these pilgrims often depended on the hospitality of the locals for food and a place to sleep.  From this hospitality came forth the creation of aligot (pronounced: alley-go). 

Aligot is a heavy potato dish originally intended to provide the pilgrims with the nourishment they needed to continue on their long journey ahead.  According to Peter and Margaret, English neighbors of Le Prieure, many villages within Southern France have their very own, special recipe for aligot.

The Saint Francis group had the pleasure of experiencing this one-of-a-kind dish at a fete they attended in September, specialty of the St. Michel township.

[Interview conducted on 13 November 2010 with Mamie and Christiane].

Mushroom Recipe

Carpaccio Mushrooms Of The Thore Valley

Clean 8 mushrooms by wiping with a damp cloth. (They should have been picked just before preparing this dish.) Slice the heads. Store them in a baking pan. Salt and pepper the mushrooms. Sprinkle with half a cup of walnut oil.
Cut the legs into small dice. Then, sprinkle with thyme. Pour over lemon juice. Put the diced legs into the dish.
Serve as is.                            


[http://www.ma-cachette.com/NFengarea.htm] - Picture

[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 147]

Hunting Recipes

As  Gabe discussed in the previous blog, there are many different animals that are hunted in this region including:

·         Boar

·         Duck

·         Rabbit

·         Pigeon

I have looked up recipes for these animals in a local cookbook that Margaret was so generous to let me borrow.

Civet de Sanglier (Boar)

Red wine stew, to be used for a tough shoulder, leg or fillet of boar.  

Cut the meat into small 1 – 2 inch pieces. Gather together: wheat flour, 1 onion, a small carrot, one or two heads of garlic, a thick and fat slice of smoked bacon, fresh mushrooms, a bottle of strong red wine, salt, pepper, herbs de Provence, a bay leaf, the smallest can of concentrated tomatoes, and fresh parsley. Use a large, deep pot or casserole dish with a cover. Place butter and oil in it and the little cubes of fat bacon into the pot. The grease of the bacon will flavor the fat. Once warm, add in the diced onions. Cut the carrot cut into thin slices and add into the pot. Cut the garlic into small pieces and add that to the pot. After all of that add the pieces of meat. Put on strong heat and continue to stir. If you find that the meat has become too dry, add some oil. Sprinkle the flour on the meat until the top becomes white. Turn it over. Don’t burn the meat but make sure that it cooks to become a dark brown. Do this again for a 2nd time. Then add 1 or 2 tablespoons of concentrated tomatoes. Mix it all again. Add in the mushrooms. Mix again and leave it a short while. Add the wine. All of the meat must be under the wine level. Put the salt, the pepper the laurel leaf and the parsley thoroughly cut. Turn the heat back up to high and let it boil while stirring it continuously.  Once it is boiling, reduce heat to minimum, place cover on top and let it cook for two hours checking on it every 20 minutes or so. After these 2 hours turn off the heat and let it sit covered another hour. Taste and add salt and pepper as necessary. Serve the next day (so let all of the flavors blend together for a day) and reheat for an hour over low heat.

Rabbit with fall apples and dried ham

Use a 3 lbs rabbit. Put in a pan pieces of lard. As soon as they are highly colored, add minced onion and shallots. Add ½ tablespoon of flour. Toss. Add a bouquet of garni. Pour 1 ½ of white wine. Reduce heat. Simmer 40 minutes.

Fifteen minutes before the end of the 40 minutes, add 3 ½ oz.  of ham fat and cut into small pieces. Remove bouquet garni.
Strain the sauce through a strainer.

Put 3 or 4 apples into a dry skillet.
Put the rabbit, fruit and ham together.
Serve with bread.

Duck with cépes Grésigne

Take 4 duck breasts and salt, pepper and lightly brush the skin side with oil. Heat over high heat for 10 minutes.
Place in preheated oven Glaze pan with 2 tablespoons of Gaillac wine.
Clean 300 gr cépes carefully. Rub with a damp cloth. Separate hats and stem. Chop coarsely. Sauté over high heat in oil / duck fat. Sprinkle the entire chopped garlic and parsley in cooking. Remove them when they are nicely browned.
Serve very hot mushrooms and duck JOINTLY.

Supreme pigeons with a cream truffle

Compose a cream with truffle peelings or broken pieces (in the absence of an Entire truffle.)
Bring to a reduction of white wine and Puerto mixed with the cream. Mix in a bit of salt and pepper. Let it sit for about 5 min.
Brush 4 pigeons with olive oil and cook 3 minutes skin side. Cook on the other side.
Top with truffle cream
Serve immediately

[http://www.poppyfields.net/poppy/photos/020604_otters.html] - Picture

[ Wild boars in Provence, Sept 2007. http://www.gourmetfly.com/Cookingwildboar.html ] - Boar recipe
[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 91] - Rabbit recipe
[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 93 ] - Duck recipe

[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 104] - Pigeon recipe

Eating within the Priory

Long ago, when this building was used as a religious priory, the monks ate their meals in what we now call the "stone room." In monastic lingo, it would have been called the "refectory."  This is the most ancient part of the complex of buildings; it was built in the 9th century!  The room is so named because it was built entirely of stone.  It is a large space that was once used for worship, prayer, and meals. When a chapel was later built, the monks used the stone room only for eating purposes.

After the Franciscan Order took over these buildings, and now as they are under lease to Saint Francis University, the entire complex has undergone many renovations. We now have a proper kitchen and dining room. According to John, the Faculty Assistant on this trip who went on the Semester Abroad program in the Fall of 2008, when he was first here, the kitchen and dining room were the same room!  Everyone used to eat there, in what is now, thankfully, a separate dining room.

Food is a way of bringing people together. Monks once came together in the stone room to share food, but not words!  Being a member of religious order, they would have taken a vow of silence.  Despite this vow, they were still able to enjoy each others company and friendship. Today, in the priory, we cannot go a meal without talking!  If there is a silence at our meals, it is because we are very hungry and/or we are really enjoying the food that our wonderful chef Bernard has prepared for us. We are always talking!  But there was one unusual dinner when silence prevailed... when we were encouraged to speak only French at the dinner table.  I was sick that evening and so did not come to the dinner. But Deb Lynch, who is over here in France with us, was there, and recalls now that she chose to remain silent during this dinner. She said that she wanted to respect the rule and, because she could not speak French, she did not talk.  These circumstances of eating in silence are quite different, but both are of a voluntary nature, and done out of respect.

Another way that food brings people together is holidays. This November, on the American holiday of Thanksgiving, we invited some of our French friends to celebrate it with us. We all started out in the stone room with some appetizers and wine. This was a way of bringing everyone together, talking and enjoying each others company. We, the Americans, knew that once we everyone was seated in the dining room, that all would 'dig in' and consequently there would not be much talking, but instead lots of eating!  Now, for our French guests who do not celebrate Thanksgiving, this was a new holiday and maybe a new tradition for them.

Food is a mechanism for bringing people together and has been for thousands of years. At the priory in Ambialet, it has provided an opportunity for monks to come together to enjoy each others fellowship in silence. More recently, it has been a means of bringing students and professors together throughout our time here in France. It has also been a way for us to come together with our wonderful French hosts, who have shown us much kindness during our stay in Ambialet.  This has been an amazing trip and I will miss this place very much. Meals at Torvian will never be able to compare to this. Every meal here is a family dinner. We sit around one large table and talk about our day, about what we have been up to, and of our plans for the next. For Americans who are always 'on the go,' there are very few family dinners where everyone sits down to enjoy a meal together.  It is nice to have a family dinner here every night. That is one thing that I will really miss once I am back in Loretto. I will have a quick meal at Torvian everyday and it will not compare to this.

[http://www.ambialetmusic.com/#img/evening-meal.jpg] - Picture

Recipes from the Tarn River

Shane just discussed the Tarn River and everything about here. Here are two recipes that are local to the area of the tarn. There is a recipe for stuffed vegetables of the Tarn with a goat cheese and then there is a Tarn salad that has walnuts in it so be careful to let people know that there are nuts in it because of any nut allergies.

Stuffed Vegetables of the Tarn with Cabécou


Raise the stem of 4 ripe tomatoes. Cut a sort of hat on each one. Remove the pulp with a spoon.
Take 4 zucchini and dig out the inside without damaging the bottom. Sprinkle with thyme and a bit of salt and pepper.
Crush the back of the fork 6 cabécous (cabécou is a type of goats cheese which is found in the area of the Mid Pyrenees in Southern France.
Spoon a little of this same cheese into each of the tomatoes.
Bake in preheated oven 20 minutes’ tomatoes and zucchini. Remove the tomatoes and keep warm.
Continue to cook the zucchini for an additional 15 minutes.

            Serve warm.

Tarn salad with walnuts

Remove skin from 4 slices of fresh lightly dried melsat (eaten like a sausage.)

Add in 4 of the kernels of nuts without breaking them too much.

Trim a few healthy leaves of dandelion and lettuce.

Cut a few pieces of Carpaccio ham. Maintain them with a pike a good hour. Remove picks before mixing with other ingredients.

Compose vinaigrette with vinegar old wine, walnut oil with equal quantity of oil neuter, 1 tablespoon honey, salt, pepper. Sprinkle this mixture of all components of this salad.

Let the salad stand 30 minutes before presenting it to the table.

[http://gambler62.izihost.org/ambialet-priory.html] - picture

[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 130 ]-Stuffed Vegetables

[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 19 ] - Salad

French Bread Recipe

As Lauren mentioned, bread is a very important part of the French diet. They have bread for breakfast, bread at lunch and bread at dinner. And don’t forget that there needs to be bread for the cheese course!

Here is a recipe for French bread:

Ingredients:

6 cups all-purpose flour 2 1/2 (.25 ounce) packages active dry yeast 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 2 cups warm water (110 degrees F/45 degrees C)

1 tablespoon cornmeal 1 egg white 1 tablespoon water

Directions:

1.	In a large bowl, combine 2 cups flour, yeast and salt. Stir in 2 cups warm water, and beat until well blended using a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment. Using a wooden spoon, stir in as much of the remaining flour as you can.
2.	On a lightly floured surface, knead in enough flour to make stiff dough that is smooth and elastic. Knead for about 8 to 10 minutes total. Shape into a ball. Place dough in a greased bowl, and turn once. Cover, and let rise in a warm place until doubled.
3.	Punch dough down, and divide in half. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Cover, and let rest for 10 minutes. Roll each half into large rectangle. Roll up, starting from a long side. Moisten edge with water and seal. Taper ends.
4.	Grease a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with cornmeal. Place loaves, seam side down, on the prepared baking sheet. Lightly beat the egg white with 1 tablespoon of water, and brush on. Cover with a damp cloth. Let rise until nearly doubled, 35 to 40 minutes.
5.	With a very sharp knife, make 3 or 4 diagonal cuts about 1/4 inch deep across top of each loaf. Bake in a preheated 375 degrees F (190 degrees C) oven for 20 minutes. Brush again with egg white mixture. Bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, or until bread tests done. If necessary, cover loosely with foil to prevent over browning. Remove from baking sheet, and cool on a wire rack.

[http://www.evernewrecipes.com/bread-recipes/french-bread-recipe.html] - Picture

[ Hall, Jenn Allrecipes http://allrecipes.com//Recipe/french-bread/Detail.aspx ] - Recipe

Modern Wine Making: Gaillac Wines

Visit to local Vineyard

Although the local traditions of wine making have started to die out, a new modern approach is being taken. Wine is being mass produced by large wine sellers. With the change, there are some positives. Wine has changed from being a simple table wine of low quality, to a wine rich in flavor. With wine being produced in large quantities for the public there are several factors that are considered. Wine varies in flavor due to the type of grapes that are grown, soil variety, and amount of water in the soil. Another factor that have been considered in wine making, is that changing seasons affect wine production. Grapes that are used before the colder seasons produce drier wines whereas grapes used from the colder seasons when the early frost comes produce sweeter wines.

Journal Entry: A Taste of Culture
On September 27, 2010, we visited one of the oldest vineyards in Gaillac! This was an experience like non other for me. We learned about how specific conditions can affect the outcome of wine. Some of these conditions include the type of grapes used, soil quality, amount of water in the soil, and the weather. The slightest change can make wine vary so much in flavor. A visit to a vineyard is not complete without a test of the final product. We taste tested four wines: a Rose, a White, a Dessert, and a Red. Wine tasting is more involved than I thought it would be. We were carefully instructed under Professor Gerry on the proper techniques in wine tasting. First, how does the color look? Secondly, what smell is present? Thirdly, don't drink but swish it around in your mouth and does it seem bitter, sweet, sour, or salty? Then spit and rinse with water. Wine is not something that you simply drink, but like any art, it is savored.


[Guided Tour, given on 27 September 2010, Chateau L'Enclos]

[Wine Tasting Class Conducted on 13 November 2010 with Professor Gerry]

Mills

Oh Bread! One of France's most necessary piece of food. Bread has always been of importance to French culture. In order to make bread and other products, mills are necessary to grind the grain.

Ambialet had two mills. The first was the “Lease of the Moulin de la Resse” in 1654. The millers had to pay an entry fee to the owner to use his mill. This allowed a source of revenue to the town to keep it alive and well.


The other mill was “Le Moulin de Bonneval” which was still functioning until 1955! It was mainly used to grind barley and oats for animals. The wheels of the mill can still be seen at the foot of the Mill today. In 1955, it would be thought that a mill would be of little importance in the area. The mill portrays how the people had little means of transportation in the time.This shows how cut off Ambialet was from the rest of the world; the closest town is 20 kilometers away! 

In order for each of these mills to operate, the Tarn River was of great importance. Each mill was powered by the wheel spinning in the water due to the flow of the river. The waterfall also allowed for the owner to heat his home.

Hydro-Electric Plant

©Tales of a Flaneur

Today, there is a hydro-electric plant in Ambialet. It can be recognized by the large pink building in the middle of town. Work was started in 1917 and the dam was completed in 1923. The hydro-electric plant is a power supply to the mines, factories, and the town of Ambialet.

<3

[Ambialet prestíqíeux et secret, "Les Moulins", p. 23 & 24]

Religion & Churches in Ambialet

Religion shapes the way that we live our lives and how society views others. Many French people consider themselves to be Catholic, but it is not common for all to to go to a weekly church service. Roman Catholicism was France’s state religion until 1905, when a new law of the Third French Republic mandated the separation between Church and State.

There have been a total of five churches in Ambialet:

• Eglise de Lacondomine was designed by Jean-Baptiste Vergnes (1829-1886). The Romanesque bell tower has been recently restored albeit the church itself no longer stands.

• Eglise de Bonneval collapsed in 1867 and it was later reconstructed in neo-Gothic style. It is no longer in use today.

Remains of Eglise Saint-Gilles    © Tales of a Flaneur 

• Notre-Dame-de-la-Capelle was built near the former Trencavel Castle. This church was strictly used as a private chapel by  these Lords from 1388 to 1762. After the siege of the 1860s, it became a parish church. Today, it is in ruins. 

• Eglise Saint-Gilles was the first parish church, which was so named because the Lords of Ambialet, the Trencavel family, worshiped this saint.  This church was built in the 11^th century and it was devoted to one of the most popular saints of the Middle Ages, Saint Gilles. The steeple is perched on a platform based on the remains of a Roman fort.  It was burned to the ground in the Wars of Religion. Today, it now serves as an exhibition hall for the works of local painters, artists, photographers, and so on.

• Notre-Dame-de-L'Oder is a Romanesque chapel which is the only church in use today. It is located at the top of a hill which overlooks the village of Ambialet. It was built in 1057. In 1866, it was restored by Father Clausade, the Franciscan Friar who restored the Priory. The church is alive and well today with many villagers attending the 11:15 a.m. mass and it boasts a lively choir.  

© Tales of a Flaneur

These five churches show that religious life and communal worship has always been very important in Ambialet. The town itself was not free of heresy, and did get entangled in the politics of the Albigensian Crusades ~ mainly because the Trencavel had Cathar sympathies. But Ambialet would prosper in the aftermath of these Crusades, thanks to the ingenuity and leadership of the town consuls.

Today, pilgrims coming to Ambialet very much enjoy the Stations of the Cross, installed by the Friars along the route to the priory, that is, from the bottom of the hill (base of the village) to the Chapel of Notre-Dame-de-L'Oder at the top. It’s definitely a bit of a climb with the rocky trail cutting into stone cliffs! According to legend, there was once a lady who was barren and prayed to God for children. She followed the Stations of the Cross up the hill on her knees all the while being in deep prayer. It is said that she later went on to have eleven children! The Stations are a pilgrimage route in use today. 

If you are ever in Ambialet, it’s worth the trek up to the top of the hill to visit the Chapel ~ the view is absolutely breathtaking!

<3

["Les Eglises" in Ambialet prestígíeux et secret, pp. 25-26]

The Albigensian Crusades

Imagine a time in which the principles and doctrine of the Christine faith were little understood by most people, and what little you understood of your own religion was being challenged and contested by others - "unbelievers." Imagine controversies erupting in churches because of the doctrinal disputes. Imagine a host of different preachers on the streets trying to win audiences and adherents.  This happened in the early 13^th century, when the problem of heresy was becoming widespread in Europe.  In southwest France, the largest group of heretics were the "Cathars." Among their shared beliefs, they held there to be two, very different Gods: one who was good and ruled over the spiritual world; and, the other, who was evil and ruled over the material world.  The Cathars attracted many followers in the south; within time, they were viewed as an ‘evil rival’ to the Catholic Church.  The emergence of this heresy, and the religious controversies sparked by it, eventually lead to religious warfare.

Cathars expelled from Carcassonne

The Albigensian Crusades (1209–1229) were a 20-year military campaign called by Pope Innocent III on behalf of the Catholic Church to eliminate the Cathar heresy in region of Languedoc. This was made possible because there was no separation of Church and State at this time. Therefore, large armies might be mobilized in the name of faith, and such wars justified along religious grounds.

Many cities were effected by these Crusades: many of these places we visited this semester ~ Toulouse, Carcassonne, Albi, Narbonne, and Moissac.

Many heretics tried to flee and hide from the crusaders. Some even came to Ambialet to hide in the "Cluzels" ~ shelters dug in the earth to provide protection. There were over 200 Cluzels in the Ambialet area. Unfortunately, neighbors and church officials found most of these heretics and brought them to Inquisitors.  As well, the Trencavel family, who long ruled this region, lost power because of their Cathar sympathies.

Contrary to what a lot of people think, the Albigensian Crusades did not greatly reduce the Cathars or their influence.  Some have argued that, in fact, the opposite happened.  What did eventually have effect was the creation and institutionalization of the Medieval Inquisition - a tribunal established by the Roman papacy, in the aftermath of the Albigensian Crusades, to deal with the continuing problem of heresy.  

Religion has always been and always will be of importance in Southern France. 

 <3

[Joseph R. Strayer, The Albigensian Crusades]

["Le Cluzel" in Ambialet prestígíeux et secret, p. 21]

Trencavel Family

Trencavel Coat of Arms

When you ask someone what their dream is, the largest response will be to win the lottery, buy a nice car, and own an island. That sounds like a pretty good dream to me. Well, what if that really did happen, minus winning the lottery, but having money at your constant disposal. Imagine yourself as part of the Trencavel family.

The Trencavel was an important noble family in Languedoc during the 10^th - 13^th centuries. They were the viscounts of Albi and many other surrounding areas. The Trencavels had a significant amount of land in the center of Languedoc which was surrounded by land of the Counts of Barcelona and the Counts of Toulouse. The Trencavels allied with the Counts of Barcelona and gained much power. 

The Trencavel family ruled Ambialet at this time. They had a great Château atop a mountain. With Ambialet being a Presqu’île, the Trencavel was able to control trade and communication. They charged large sums of money to pass through their waters and allowed only the passing of certain goods. From which, great revenue was accumulated.

Though, at this time, heresy was growing significantly. The family took advantage of the Cathar heretics, and was of the first to have the Albigensian Crusades launched against them.

As a result of the Albigensian Crusades, the Trencavel Family lost all their lands and titles. Ambialet then had to learn to live and grow as a community without the noble family governing their area.

The Trencavel family seems to have had it pretty well, besides loosing all their wealth, but I think anyone would be content living the life that they did for a several hundred years while ruling many lands.

<3

[www.languedoc-france.info, The House of Trencavel]

[Ambialet prestíqíeux et secret, "La Fin Des Trencavel", p. 8]

A Tradition Still Holding as Strong as Its Taste: The Delightful Roquefort Cheese

The Delightful Roquefort Cheese
Courtesy of Melanie Dollar

Like the wine making of Ambialet, the production of Roquefort Cheese is a past time favorite. The difference with the cheese is the tradition is still being practiced. Cheese is critical in France. France alone has at least 500 varieties of cheese! Each region is known for its specialty in a specific kind of cheese. The region that Ambialet belongs to is known for its Roquefort cheese. Roquefort cheese has an interesting tradition on how it is made. This cheese requires sheep’s milk and the milk is matured into cheese in local caves between 6-12 months. When the maturing process is complete, it has recognizable characteristics that set it aside from other cheeses. It has a soft white color, some small holes like Swiss cheese with speckled spots consisting of green mold.

What is a meal without cheese?

It’s tradition that cheese is eaten at every meal. The locals here have a saying about a meal without cheese, “A meal without cheese is like a day without sunshine or a kiss without a mustache.” 

[Interviews conducted on 13 November 2010 with Mamie and Christiane]

Country of Water

"Water, water everywhere, nor any drop to drink" is a famous quote by Samuel Taylor Coleridge. This quote is anything but true about Ambialet!  The village boasts many deep springs in its hills, which were once a valuable source of water for the inhabitants!  Springs were found along the rocky cliffs, and one can still see cisterns that were built to capture this water.  These springs were an important resource for the people who lived high up, in rocky huts and caves, because they would not have to fetch water from the Tarn River and carry it all the way back up the hill! While these springs are no longer in use today, they are nevertheless regarded as an important artifact of local history.

Font du Drac

The ancients called one of these springs, "Font du Drac." It was located in a high rocky cliff, a most improbable place in which to find a spring... so improbable that people thought that it was made by diabolical means.  Legend holds that a demonic being called "Drac" angered the Dragon of the Apocalypse of Saint John, which resulted in a third of the stars cast down upon the earth.  One of these stars landed and formed the "Font du Drac." It seems that this legend was used in creative ways by the locals.  For instance, grandmothers used to threaten disobedient children that they would hand them over to 'Drac,' hence they would drown, if they did not shape up!  This myth is still told to this day, and thus children are taught to fear the power of Drac!

“Ambialet, country of water, again and always a place of life.”

<3 

["Les Fontaines" (pp. 29-30) and "La Font du Drac" (pp. 5-6)  in Ambialet prestígíeux et secret] 

Origin of Ambialet's Name

Seal of Ambialet

Have you ever wondered how things are named? Many people enjoy tracing their family name back in time to see where they have come from and to find out the significance of their name. Well, what about towns? Their names must have some sort of meaning, too.

Let's trace the name of "Ambialet" back in time. The word itself has Gallic (Celtic) and Latin roots:

From the Gallic language comes ambileto, which means ‘ring yoke.’

From Latin comes ambi meaning ‘around’ and leto meaning ‘flow.’

Ambialet is a Presqu’ île, meaning ‘almost island.’  Therefore, these words were put together to form the name Ambialet in which water flows around the town. Very clever!

Latin was the spoken and written language of the Romans, who governed this part of France (and most of Europe) for centuries, until roughly the 5th century.  Gallic was the language spoken by the "Gauls," peoples who had settled in the region of France before the Roman period. That Ambialet has both Gallic and Latin roots tells us something about the union and mixing of different peoples and cultures in this region many centuries ago.

<3

["Les Fontaines" in Ambialet prestígíeux et secret,  p. 29]

Myth of Ambialet

You may wonder how Ambialet came to be what it is today. Let’s take a broad step back in time. It all began like the other fairy tales we have learned to love ~ with a giant. The ancients say that this giant, "Gargantua," was strolling through the countryside, stepping from one hill to another. The journey was tiring and it made Gargantua very thirsty. At some point, he leaned down and drank a river whole! Upon feeling a little twig sticking on his tongue, he spit there, and out came a cart loaded with hay and pulled by oxen, which peacefully crossed the river! While taking more great strides, a little stone got stuck in the giant's shoe. He took this out and threw it aside. One of these stones landed at Ambialet. Today, this is known as «la Pierre plantée», which in English means ‘the planted stone.’

Presqu’ île of Ambialet

 © Tales of a Flaneur

So there's the story! Ambialet was just a tiny stone stuck in Gargantua’s shoe that was later filled in and surrounded by water. This is why Ambialet is called a «Presqu’île», which means ‘almost an island' (or peninsula).

<3

["Les Cupules" in Ambialet prestígíeux et secret, p. 3]

A Disappearing Tradition: Local Wine Making of Ambialet

In so many villages and local communities in France, wine making was once a popular tradition. Ambialet was part of this popular trend at one time. Everyone use to make their own wine; however, it was not very good. When locals of Ambialet use to make wine, it was of lower quality and produced more easily. Locals use to make their wine stronger by distilling it and their expression for this strong wine was “rough and ready.”
Wine making is considered a good tradition, but in recent years it has begun to disappear. This change in a long standing tradition is due to a change in laws. A new license system is now in effect and people have to obtain a license to produce their own wine. Another factor feeding into this dying tradition is the license cannot be passed down to younger generations. As the older generations pass away, the tradition slowly disappears as a result of the new law and the younger generations are not upholding it.

Le Prieuré d'Ambialet: Monks who use to live at the monastery use to make wine where the cemetery is now!

  

[Interviews conducted on 13 November 2010 with Mamie and Christiane]

Tarn River

The name "Tarn" is derived from the term "Taranis," the Gallic god of thunder and of floods or torrents.  The Tarn River is 233 miles (375 km) in length and it flows through a total of four districts throughout France.  It is very windy, at one point, taking on a 3 km loop, and snaking around the village of Ambialet.  The bends of the river can be seen clearly from Le Prieuré (The Priory), which rests atop a rocky hill overlooking the village.  As mentioned in the previous blog, the land formation that was shaped by the Tarn is called a 'Presqu'île.'  There is even a “Café de la Presqu'île” located in the heart of the Ambialet.  According to legend, there has been a café on that exact spot since Roman times... but you’ll have to ask Nadine, the owner of the café, about this yourself! 
 

["L'église Saint-Gilles" in Journée du Patrimoine 2010]

["Tarn River." Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved December 06, 2010, from Encyclopedia Online:  http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/583623/Tarn-River ]

Mushrooms

Here in Ambialet, people have been picking mushrooms for centuries. As discussed in the interview with Mamie and Christiane, there are several types of mushrooms in this region. There are cépes, girolles and coulement. These mushrooms each grow in different areas and in different shapes. There are two different types of cépes. There are smaller brown ones that can be found under oak trees and there are larger light brown/maroon ones that can be found underneath chestnut trees. The girolles are found in the woods and the coulement mushrooms are found on Mont St. Michel. The coulement mushrooms look like a small umbrella and they taste like rubber according to Peter and Margaret, the English couple at the bottom of the hill.

            The best time to go and pick these mushrooms is in mid September and October. Sometimes they can be found in the spring, depending on the weather. The weather and environment needs to be warm and wet. If it is cold and wet or warm and dry, the mushrooms will not grow. In our time here in Ambialet, we have seen several people on the side of the hill picking mushrooms as we came to or went from the monastery. There used to be many different types of mushrooms that could be found in the woods of the area of the Tarn River. People used to take care of the forest and treat it like a garden. They would keep the areas clear and make it a perfect setting to grow mushrooms. Since people have since stopped taking care of the woods and they have let it become overgrown, there are not as many types of mushrooms and there are not as many mushrooms because not all of the conditions are ideal.

Mamie and Christiane both said that you can cook these mushrooms by stuffing them with bread and sausage meat and putting them in the oven and cook. Also you can put parsley, dill leave and olive oil and eat the mushrooms raw.

             One fact about mushrooms that I found very interesting is that if you pick a mushroom and bring it into a Pharmacia (pharmacy), the pharmacists has to be able to determine if the mushroom is safe to eat. So pharmacists are taught how to distinguish the mushrooms and to be able to tell if they are safe to eat or if they will make you sick or even kill you. This is something that is very different from the United States. Back in the states if someone bought a mushroom into a pharmacy and asked the pharmacist if it was edible, you would get some strange looks and they wouldn’t be able to tell you.

[http://eurovac09.blogspot.com/2009/03/bistro-feastro.html] - Picture
[Interview 13 November 2010 with Mamie and Christiane]

Soups

In the interview that I did with Mamie and Christiane, two wonderful very sweet French ladies from the village of Ambialet, they had talked about soups. As we enter into December here in Ambialet, it is starting to get colder and colder. It has even started snowing. I can see where a nice warm soup and a very cold day would be delicious. They had mentioned that one of the soups that are local to this area is an onion soup (Touraine). You heat up some oil add water, salt, a little bit of tomatoes and then some cut up onions. It wasn’t until someone said that this soup is French onion soup that I made the connection (after all, we are in France). I know that I love french onion soup. They also had mentioned soup au fromage, cheese soup, which isn’t a soup at all. They also talked about a local Albi recipe for a radish soup.

[http://www.thelocal.se/blogs/eatingout/tag/soup/] - Picture

[Interview 13 November 2010 with Mamie and Christiane]

Soup Recipes

Here is the recipe for this local soup that Mamie and Christiane talked about.
Radishes of Albi with a cold sausage

Allow the melsat (a type of sausage) to remain as a sausage. Cut the sausage into thin slices.

Clean radishes. Cut the radishes into thin slices. Drizzle with vinegar. Serve as is.
           

Albigensian Soup

Clean 1 cabbage (remove the core), 2 carrots, 2 onions, 2 leeks, 1 turnip, 1 celery. Cook the peeled potatoes separately after cutting them into large cube.

Put goose fat in a pot. When it melts, add everything into the pot with the exception of the potatoes. Put in enough water to cover everything in the pot. Stir in 1 ham heel and 1 piece of bacon. Allow 40 minutes cooking on medium heat.

Add the potatoes. Continue cooking it for 20 min.

Serve hot. Serve with nice fresh bread.

This recipe yields 30 servings.


[ http://www.easy-recipes-online.com/vegetable-soup-recipe.html] - Picture
[Interview 13 November 2010 with Mamie and Christiane]

[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 30 ] - Radish of Albi

[Chalendar, Pierrette. La Cuisine Du Tarn. C. Lacour, 2001. Page 42 ]- Albigensian Soup

La bûche de Noël

While there are many desserts associated with the holiday season such as fruit cakes, cookies, candy canes and sugar plums, gingerbread, the delicious German Stollen, peppermint bark, etc, the popular and festive French tradition of la bûche de Noël takes the cake (pardon the pun). Typically, La bûche de Noël -or Yule Log- is a cake with a cream filling: shaped, designed, and decorated to resemble a log- leaves, mushrooms and moss included (thankfully those are often meringue or candy and not actual fungi!!!).

Like all traditions, this one has an interesting history of origin, and like many French traditions, the "real" origin of the tradition varies but, it all started in the pre-Christianity days and a ritual performed to honor Thor, the Pagan god of thunder. This ritual carried over into ones relating to the Winter Solstice celebrations. Enter Christianity and the celebration of Christmas: the French carried on a similar ritual like tradition. A large log was cut and placed into the fireplace (all in a very sing-song and celebratory manner) where it was then lit to supply warmth through the night while offering comfort, and then the ashes were sprinkled around for good luck. Some may also say that the origins of this tradition revolve around the fact that many French lived in simple conditions, and with Winter bringing the gloomy harsh conditions, having a log to burn was a cause for celebration in it's own right.... With either story, there are of course a few superstitions that accompany the tradition of this burning log. Some of which include: if there are sparks- the more sparks, the better the year's harvest, if long shadows are casted then there was a fear of death of a family member....and the list goes on and on.
Well, enter the 20th century and the introduction of electricity, the actual burning of a log wasn't necessary. Fortunately for us sweet-toothers, the French often use food to keep traditions alive. They are creative (and talented!) in the kitchen, thus giving the world yet another delicious experience of French culture.

[http://www.mahalo.com/buche-de-noel]
[http://www.joyofbaking.com/YuleLog.html]
[http://host.madison.com/entertainment/dining/restaurants/article_4f0e219b-d95f-5105-827b-5b479f2cad67.html]

Happy St. Nicolas Day!!!

December 6th is the ever celebrated and recognized feast day of Saint Nicolas.

From a young age children are taught the story of St. Nicolas, and on the eve of his feast day they will put their shoes by the chimney and sing a song or two before going to bed. In the morning they will find that the shoes have been filled with cookies, chocolates, and other sweet treats all thanks to good ol' Saint Nic.

Where did this tradition start?, you may ask. Well readers,click, sit back, and listen:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MV3-241tzo

For those of you whose French is a bit rusty, allow me to offer a brief history in English:

Once upon a time there were three little boys. They wandered far far away and became lost. They were cold, hungry, and scared . The thee boys asked a butcher to help them for the night. Turns out this butcher was an aspiring horror movie character because he lured them into a large tub and began salting them. Thankfully, Saint Nicolas stepped in to save the day! The boys were safely returned to their homes and thereafter, Nicolas became the patron protector of children.

(By the way, the butcher's name is Père Fouettard- which translates to Father Bogeyman. Coincidence? Oh, I think not...)

[http://www.blogger.com/post-create.g?blogID=4097997807824010929]